If you have a missing or damanged component on your Proffieboard, this page will help you identify it and what you can do about it. If you have a hot-air soldering station, most of these components are relatively to easy to replace, just look up the component you need in the BOM. TopQ3: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. C22: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. C2: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. D62: USB reverse current diode (PMEG2005ELD)Prevents 5V current flow to the battery when on USB. The board may work properly without this if the battery is charged, or not present. C21: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. C5: touch charge vessel (0.1uF)Only used for touch buttons, if you don't use touch buttons, you don't need this component. C9: Filter capacitors (1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. U5: Battery charger (STBC08)Board will operate ok without it, but will not charge the battery, obviously. Y1: 32768Hz Crystal (ST2012SB 4pF)Regulates the CPU speed. R5: Data1 in-line resistor (470)Can be replaced with a bridge, but the board will be vulnerable unless there is an external resistor somewhere. Note that if you have a pogo pin connector, the resistor should be between the board and the pogo pins, having one in the blade is not sufficient to protect the board. C1: Filter capacitors (1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. U4: Main CPU (STM32L452REIx)This is a BGA part and it is difficult to replace yourself, if damaged I suggest getting a new board. Q5: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. C7: crystal capacitor (5.6pF)These capacitors make the crystal work properly. If damaged, the board will not work, or it may run very slowly. SW2: Reset button (KXT331LHS)The board will work fine without it. If it's not working, you can short the reset pad to GND instead. Also, if your goal is to put the board in bootloader mode, you can hold BOOT while providing power to the board instead of holding BOOT while pressing reset. C61: Battery power noise filter (1uF)This capacitor helps filter out incoming noise and helps the 3.3v regulator work properly. It's entirely possible that the board will work without it, especially if you don't have anything extra drawing power from the 3.3v pad. L2: cpu power filter coil (600 ferrite)Filters out noise on the power provided to the CPU In most cases, this can be replaced with a bridge. The extra noise is still unlikely to cause problems for the CPU. SW1: Boot button (KXT331LHS)BOOT button The board will work just fine without it, until you end up with a bad programming and need to press it. If you remove the button completely, you can short the pads with a paperclip or tweezers when you need to push it. Q1: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. RN4: USB protection (2x22ohm)Protects the USB and CPU from each other Can potentially be replaced with two bridges, but the board will be more vulnerable to electrical spikes over the USB connection. Also, if you bridge the pads, make sure to bridge them the right way, or USB communications will not work. D61: Battery reverse current diode (PMEG2005ELD)Prevents 5v power from the booster and USB from going to the battery. Sometimes, this breaks down in an odd way, where the board will work just fine IF you plug it in to USB to boot it up. While the board can potentially operate if this is replaced with a bridge, it's not safe to do so, and the component must be replaced to make the board work again. C51: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. RN3: Dual resistor (2x2.2k)Pullup resistor for SDA/SCL. Could be replaced with two external resistors between 3.3v pad and SDA/SCL if damaged. D63: Booster reverse current diode (PMEG2005ELD)Prevents 5V from going back into the booster from USB / battery. If this is damaged, the board might not work properly when the battery is low. U60: 3.3v regulator (NCP177)Feeds power to the CPU, SD card and motion chip, board will not work without it. USB1: USB Connector (10118192)If broken, you can use the D+/D-/VBUS pads to hook up an alternate USB connection. U40: USB ESD protection (HSP061-2M6)Board may operate ok without it, but would be more sensitive to static electricity on the USB port. R6: VBUS power sense resistor (4.7k)If damaged, ProffieOS will not notice when USB is connected. Board can still be re-programmed using BOOT+RESET, but serial monitor and the proffieos workbench will not work. BottomSD1: SD card reader (microsd_socket)For reading SD cards, duh! Q2: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. RN5: Pull-up/down resistors (4x100k 1%)Primarily used to keep FETs off when the CPU is not powered. RN2: Pull-up/down resistors (4x100k 1%)Primarily used to keep FETs off when the CPU is not powered. L1: Voltage booster coil (1.0 uH 4A)5V booster will not work without this. If that happens, you can try bridging the BATT+ and 5V pads to fix it. RN1: Pull-up/down resistors (4x100k 1%)Primarily used to keep FETs off when the CPU is not powered. C6: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. C12: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. R4: Battery voltage divider (410k 1%)Used to sense the battery voltage. If damaged, the battery may read high or low all the time. C4: filter capacitor (0.1uF)These capacitors are used to filter out noise from other circuits. The board *may* operate properly without one or two of these, but it would be more likely to random crashes or other bad behavior. R3: Battery voltage divider (410k 1%)Used to sense the battery voltage. If damaged, the battery may read high or low all the time. U3: 5V booster (TPS61230DRCR)Used to feed 5 volts to the amplifier for maximum volume. If damaged, try bridging 5V to BATT+. Q4: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. U1: Amplifier (MAX98357A_TQFN)Drives the speaker. Q7: dual pFET (DMP2075UFDB)One of the pFETs in this component is used as reverse polarity protection, the other side controls the power to the SD card. If broken, the board will not work. If only one side is damaged, it may start, but will be unable do read from the SD card. It's possible to bridge these connections to make the board work if this component is damaged. Q6: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. List of all componentsC5: touch charge vessel (0.1uF)Only used for touch buttons, if you don't use touch buttons, you don't need this component. C61: Battery power noise filter (1uF)This capacitor helps filter out incoming noise and helps the 3.3v regulator work properly. It's entirely possible that the board will work without it, especially if you don't have anything extra drawing power from the 3.3v pad. D61: Battery reverse current diode (PMEG2005ELD)Prevents 5v power from the booster and USB from going to the battery. Sometimes, this breaks down in an odd way, where the board will work just fine IF you plug it in to USB to boot it up. While the board can potentially operate if this is replaced with a bridge, it's not safe to do so, and the component must be replaced to make the board work again. D62: USB reverse current diode (PMEG2005ELD)Prevents 5V current flow to the battery when on USB. The board may work properly without this if the battery is charged, or not present. D63: Booster reverse current diode (PMEG2005ELD)Prevents 5V from going back into the booster from USB / battery. If this is damaged, the board might not work properly when the battery is low. L1: Voltage booster coil (1.0 uH 4A)5V booster will not work without this. If that happens, you can try bridging the BATT+ and 5V pads to fix it. L2: cpu power filter coil (600 ferrite)Filters out noise on the power provided to the CPU In most cases, this can be replaced with a bridge. The extra noise is still unlikely to cause problems for the CPU. Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6: Power control FET (Q_NMOS_DGS)Controls the power to the LEDs or Pixels There are six of these, and if some of them are not used, these become your spares if one of these breaks. So if you short your blade and Q2/Q3 fries, just hook up your blade to LED4/5 instead and update your configuration accordingly. Q7: dual pFET (DMP2075UFDB)One of the pFETs in this component is used as reverse polarity protection, the other side controls the power to the SD card. If broken, the board will not work. If only one side is damaged, it may start, but will be unable do read from the SD card. It's possible to bridge these connections to make the board work if this component is damaged. R5: Data1 in-line resistor (470)Can be replaced with a bridge, but the board will be vulnerable unless there is an external resistor somewhere. Note that if you have a pogo pin connector, the resistor should be between the board and the pogo pins, having one in the blade is not sufficient to protect the board. R6: VBUS power sense resistor (4.7k)If damaged, ProffieOS will not notice when USB is connected. Board can still be re-programmed using BOOT+RESET, but serial monitor and the proffieos workbench will not work. RN3: Dual resistor (2x2.2k)Pullup resistor for SDA/SCL. Could be replaced with two external resistors between 3.3v pad and SDA/SCL if damaged. RN4: USB protection (2x22ohm)Protects the USB and CPU from each other Can potentially be replaced with two bridges, but the board will be more vulnerable to electrical spikes over the USB connection. Also, if you bridge the pads, make sure to bridge them the right way, or USB communications will not work. SD1: SD card reader (microsd_socket)For reading SD cards, duh! SW1: Boot button (KXT331LHS)BOOT button The board will work just fine without it, until you end up with a bad programming and need to press it. If you remove the button completely, you can short the pads with a paperclip or tweezers when you need to push it. SW2: Reset button (KXT331LHS)The board will work fine without it. If it's not working, you can short the reset pad to GND instead. Also, if your goal is to put the board in bootloader mode, you can hold BOOT while providing power to the board instead of holding BOOT while pressing reset. U1: Amplifier (MAX98357A_TQFN)Drives the speaker. U3: 5V booster (TPS61230DRCR)Used to feed 5 volts to the amplifier for maximum volume. If damaged, try bridging 5V to BATT+. U4: Main CPU (STM32L452REIx)This is a BGA part and it is difficult to replace yourself, if damaged I suggest getting a new board. U40: USB ESD protection (HSP061-2M6)Board may operate ok without it, but would be more sensitive to static electricity on the USB port. U5: Battery charger (STBC08)Board will operate ok without it, but will not charge the battery, obviously. U60: 3.3v regulator (NCP177)Feeds power to the CPU, SD card and motion chip, board will not work without it. USB1: USB Connector (10118192)If broken, you can use the D+/D-/VBUS pads to hook up an alternate USB connection. Y1: 32768Hz Crystal (ST2012SB 4pF)Regulates the CPU speed. | ||||||||
